The cost of the 6 hour taxi? Just $50 USD. It was a quick ride, especially when you are just pre-occupied with reading books, news, and other articles on your phone (zoning out pretty much).
6 hour taxi from Khiva to Bukhara, Uzbekistan
While Khiva was -1 Celsius in the daytime, Bukhara was only slightly warmer, at maybe 2-5 Celsius, so bundling up and walking around, was the best way to stay warm.
Bukhara, Uzbekistan Video Review
The Ancient City of Bukhara
The history of Bukhara goes back about 2500 years, with the initial settlements of the Aryan people.
It was a major city within the Persian empire from 600 BCE, but eventually a Turkic population overthrew the locals.
By the 9th, and 10th century, the Samanid empire (an Iranian Islamic empire) conquered the city and Bukhara became the intellectual capital of the Islamic world.
In 1220, Genghis Khan destroyed the entire city, leaving only a minaret and a wall of a mausoleum intact.
From the 16th to the 18th century, Bukhara became part of the Bukhara Khanate (Kingdom).
Eventually, the ‘Great Game’ between the Russian and English empires caused Russia to take Bukhara (and Khiva, and other Uzbek regions) into its control (1830-1895).
By 1917, the communists-soviets had overthrown the Russian empire.
On 1920, a well-trained soviet army invaded and captured Bukhara, ultimately integrating Bukhara (and Khiva, Tashkent, Samarkand, etc) into the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic.
By 1991, Bukhara was assimilated into the newly formed Republic of Uzbekistan.
According to the government census, 80%+ of the population is registered as ‘Uzbek’, yet the majority of the population speaks ‘Tajik’.
Finally, a large number of Jews settled in Bukhara during roman times, and developed their own dialect called ‘Bukhori’ (variation of Tajik).
Yet due to a constant, high level of abuse and persecution, the population gradually fell.
From 1925 until 2000, Judaism was abolished (and all other forms of religious worship) in Uzbekistan. Most Jews who left Bukhara at this point, ended up in Israel and the USA.
Entering the central district of Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Contemporary stylized hotel (Hotel Fatima) in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
The historic ‘Hauz’ pond in the center of Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Most ponds were filled in by the soviet government in Bukhara, due to spreading diseases among the population.
Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah in Bukhara (built in the 1620’s)
A Christmas tree for the tourists in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka in Bukhara
Ducks chilling in freezing weather in Labi Hovuz pond in Bukhara
Ducks chilling in freezing weather in Labi Hovuz pond in Bukhara
Uzbek tourists in Bukhara
Facing towards the Bazaar in Bukhara
Pigeons trying to survive the cold weather in Bukhara
Magok-i-Attari Mosque (Mosque in a Pit). Before the construction of this mosque, Muslims and Jews worshiped together.
The entrance to Magok-i-Attari Mosque. It was originally built on a Zoroastrian temple (Temple of the Moon). It was one of only 2 buildings not completely destroyed by Genghis Khan in 1220.
Local Uzbeks riding bicycles in the cold weather of Bukhara
Entering the Bazaar area of Bukhara
An uzbek father shops around in the Bazaar in Bukhara
A merchant selling his wares in Bukhara
The trading domes of Bukhara. Initially only selling, books, over time, other things were being traded here.
An Uzbek man sells jewelry in Bukhara
Toki-Zargaron Trading Dome in Bukhara
The domes of Toki-Zargaron Trading Dome
Facing the Toki-Zargaron Trading Dome
Ulugbek Madrasah, Bukhara built in 1417
The Bukhara Ulugbek Madrasah facing the Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah (built in 1652)
Abdulaziz Khan Madrasah (built in 1652)
Inside the Bukhara Ulugbek Madrasah
The Bukhara Ulugbek Madrasah
The alleyways of Bukhara are a fun walk
Bukhari locals walking in the streets of central Bukhara
During the communist period, most buildings were not repaired in Bukhara, so everything fell into disarray.
A house in the alleyways of Bukhara
The alleyways of Bukhara
A decrepit house in Bukhara. As tourism opens up, this will most likely convert into an Airbnb
Looking into someones backyard in Bukhara
Writing on the walls of a house in Bukhara, with English writing for some reason
A mini-mosque or museum in Bukhara, Uzbekistan
A view of the rooftops of the houses in Bukhara
A little boy makes his way through the alleys in Bukhara
2 local uzbek men converse in front of a Madrasah in Bukhara
I have no clue what this says (could be arabic, tajik, or uzbek). Perhaps a grave?
A family going to their car in Bukhara
Walking back towards the trading domes, and back to my hotel, at night in Bukhara
Locals walking the streets at night in Bukhara
A man walks the streets at night, in Bukhara
Camels were used as the primary mode of transportation across much of the silk road, into Bukhara
Camels store fat in their humps, allowing them to travel for days without food.
Back to day-time exploration of the alleyways of Bukhara
A residential door leading to a home in Bukhara
Kitty cat in Bukhara
Kitty cat in Bukhara
A local man in Bukhara, perhaps after attending prayer.
A van carrying/selling locally grown produce
A black soviet-era car next to an early 19th century Bukhara building
Walking around the alley ways of Bukhara
An uzbek restaurant offering traditional local Uzbek dishes (which are absolutely delicious)
Uzbek-style contemporary knives for sale
Inside a Madrassah in Bukhara
Inside a Madrassah in Bukhara
A filtered photo of local uzbeks waiting for the bus in Bukhara, in front of the Nadir Divanbegi Khanaka
Local police officers walking around Bukhara
Looking around the central district in Bukhara
An entrance to a decrepit Madrassah in Bukhara
Inside a decrepit Madrassah in Bukhara. When the soviets arrived, they banned religion. Most facilities fell into complete ruin afterwards.
Inside a decrepit Madrassah in Bukhara. When the soviets arrived, they banned religion. Most facilities fell into complete ruin afterwards.
Inside a decrepit Madrassah in Bukhara.
The internet in Uzbekistan is absolutely awful. It was borderline impossible to get any digital nomad work done while in Uzbekistan.
A madrassah that has fallen into ruin. After Uzbekistan opens up its tourism doors, this Madrassah will most likely be repaired again.
A man walks down a street in Bukhara
Reconstruction efforts are slowly taking place in Bukhara
A pigeon tries to keep warm in cold Bukhara weather.
The Ark fortress, which was in use since the 5th century CE.
The walls of the Ark fortress now lay in ruin, after the soviet army completely destroyed it.
Plates and wares for sale inside the Ark fortress in Bukhara
A court that was reconstructed inside the Ark fortress
The royal court inside the Ark fortress. This is where the ’emirs, their chief viziers, military leaders, and numerous servants.’
According to the guide, this is where all of the money, treasures, and gifts were stored inside the Ark fortress.
Trinkets for sale inside the Ark fortress
The symbol of Islam inside the Ark fortress
During the soviet invasion of Bukhara, almost everything inside the Ark was annihilated. These are simple reconstructions.
(Can’t recall the history of this image)
Possibly persian forces destroying roman legions
An empire comes to conquer the people
A boy studies inside a madrassah
Timurlane pretends to study Islam. He used the pretext of Islam effectively to rally his army, and conquer much of central Asia
Genghis Khan?
Bukhara natives, most likely from the royal family, after being assimilated into the Russian empire/protectorate (pre-soviets).
An interesting instance of Arabic and Russian on the same news paper. This is after Bukhara, and much of Uzbekistan was assimilated into the Russian empire.
The first instances of photography of the Ark fortress, most likely pre-soviet destruction.
An early photo of Bukhara (100+ years ago), showing still intact Madrassah, and trading domes.
A map of Russia from 1562, using the Latin/Italian language
One of the Madrassah, most likely in Samarkand.
Living conditions inside a madrassah in Uzbekistan
Traditional uzbek womens clothing. Black and white photo, recoloured
An old photo of the Kalon minaret and the Kalon mosque, built in 1127 to summon muslims for prayer, 5 times per day. The tower was spared by Genghis Khan, while he destroyed everything else in the city, in 1220.
A painting of the Ark fortress, pre-soviet destruction
Madrassahs and trading domes in Bukhara – painting depicting older times.
An Ark-fortress-top view of the city of Bukhara
A bird sits on the ruins of the Ark fortress. 80% of the Ark fortress is now just a ruinous dirt hill, bombed by the soviets.
Looking at the rooftops of Bukhara
Mir-i-Arab Madrasa from a distance
It was a cloudy day, but I managed to clear it up just a bit. This is Bukhara from the hill-top.
More rooftops in Bukhara
Bolo Haouz Mosque, built in 1712 on the opposite side of the Ark fortress
Inside the Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara
The small minaret in front of the Bolo Haouz Mosque in Bukhara
The entrance to the Ark fortress in Bukhara
The enormous walls of the Ark fortress in Bukhara
Mir-i Arab Madrassah (1535-1536) on the left, and the Kalon Minaret on the right, and the Siddikiyon Mosque on the far right edge
The entrance to the inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara.
Inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara.
Inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara.
Inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara, facing the Kalon minaret on the right
Inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara.
Inside the Siddikiyon Mosque in Bukhara.
Posing inside the Siddikiyon Mosque
A real close-up to the Kalon minaret. Genghis Khan chose not to destroy this when he invaded in 1220.
Contemporary chairs from traditionalist times in Bukhara
An alley way in Bukhara, facing the Kalon minaret
Traditional female headdresses in Bukhara and Uzbekistan
Trinkets and jewelry for sale in Bukhara
Riding bicycles down the bazaar of Bukhara
A typical camel and figurine toy that you can buy in Bukhara
An Uzbek couple that was just recently married, and is now creating wedding photos
Conclusion
Bukhara is one of the 4 cities I recommend visiting in Uzbekistan: Tashkent, Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. All 4 were powerhouses on the ancient Silk Road, and feature lots of history to absorb and old buildings to admire and think about.
While Khiva was still my favorite city to wander around in Uzbekistan, Bukhara has its charm as well. I really recommend trying the food.
After Bukhara, I took a 4-hour taxi over to Samarkand, for my final city to adventure in Uzbekistan.
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4 Comments
Robert Smaus·
Great photos, but what are all the above ground pipes for in the various alleyways?
Hey Robert, it’s a very very old city that wasn’t taken care of properly during the soviet union. Even now, there isn’t much emphasis on repairing this town, which allows it to maintain a ruin-like feel (whether for good or bad).
Great photos, but what are all the above ground pipes for in the various alleyways?
Hey Robert, it’s a very very old city that wasn’t taken care of properly during the soviet union. Even now, there isn’t much emphasis on repairing this town, which allows it to maintain a ruin-like feel (whether for good or bad).
Nice man! thank you for this photos !
p.s im from in Bukhara 🙂
You are most welcome Shavkat, great little city 🙂