Curitiba, A mini-Metropolis Many Brazilians Want To Live In
I lived in Curitiba, Brazil for two separate months in 2017. Curitiba was recommended to me by several Brazilians as the cleanest and safest major metropolitan area in the country. My original plan was to stay in the concrete jungle of São Paulo, but after visiting and finding it overwhelming, I opted for Curitiba instead to experience Brazil’s best city.
This article details my experiences, recommendations, and overall perspective after spending a total of two months getting to know Curitiba over the course of the year.
Arriving in Curitiba
I landed at Curitiba’s airport after taking a short flight from somewhere in Brazil. Stepping outside into the warmth of the late summer air, I could already sense the more relaxed pace of the city compared to the intense hustle of São Paulo. The first thing I arranged was an Airbnb apartment rental right next to a busy road and shopping center. It wasn’t the most beautiful or quiet accommodation, but it provided easy access to essential shops and restaurants.
As I ventured outside to explore my new neighborhood, I was surrounded by government buildings and businesses, indicating I was likely on the outskirts of the downtown core. I discovered an inexpensive and efficient bus system that loops around the city’s attractions. For about $3 per ride, tourists can hop on and off to see sights like the Botanical Garden, the Ukrainian Memorial, and the Oscar Niemeyer Museum. Locals recommended I check out the Panoramic Tower for impressive views of Curitiba from above.
Experiencing the Culture
One aspect of Curitiba that stood out was the interesting buffet culture. Most were “buffet livre” style, allowing diners like myself to eat as much as they wanted for a fixed price. This was perfect for my noon breakfasts before a day of work-mode or sightseeing. Beyond the buffets, a thriving nightlife district north of my apartment provided plenty of dinner spots ranging from cozy bars to pulsating nightclubs. While the clubs may not rival the intensity of Rio or São Paulo, they attract a good mixture of university students, young professionals, and tourists looking for fun.
Safety First
While no major city is immune to crime, I felt comfortable walking around most parts of Curitiba. There were noticeably fewer homeless people than in other Brazilian metropolises. And the city takes cleanliness seriously, with cleaning crews promptly sweeping the streets at dawn after the previous night’s revelries. An expat friend who lives in São Paulo told me horror stories of armed robberies, while the worst I heard from locals in Curitiba were petty thefts and occasional pickpocketing. Still, I remained vigilant.
Weekend Trips
Curitiba’s relatively central location makes it a great base for exploring southern Brazil. During my first month in the city, I took several weekend trips to nearby attractions. This included a 4-hour bus ride to the beach island of Florianópolis (I would end up living here for 3 months in 2021), where I enjoyed the amazing sand dunes, pristine beaches, and metropolis of Floripa.
Then, on another day, I booked a flight to the thundering Iguaçu Falls at the Brazil/Argentina border. Easily exceeding Niagara Falls in beauty and scale. Watch out for the coati who can potentially rob you of your food and drinks. Unfortunately, I booked the wrong flight back to Curitiba, so I was stuck on a 9 hour bus. Let me tell you, there is only so much time one can spend listening to audiobooks and podcasts on a bus in the middle of nowhere!
I even crossed another border to sample life in Paraguay. The capital city of Asunción disappointed with its litter-lined streets, but the rural countryside was lush and green. The journey was about 16 hours+ by bus, both ways, to and from Curitiba.
Leaving Curitiba the First Time
My first month living in Curitiba flew by quickly between the comfortable apartment, tasty food, and weekend adventures. I left on a mission to explore more of Brazil, and a few other destinations.
Manaus
This began by flying north to Manaus for 6 days of Amazon exploration with a friend. Spending half the time in the dense jungle without technology was an adjustment but also liberating. Sleeping in hammocks and spotting Amazon wildlife gave us a taste of native life far from civilization.
Returning to Manaus, we participated in the intense Brazilian Carnival celebration leading up to Lent. I wasn’t impressed by the pub-crawl-like setting and atmosphere, but the samba beats, and infectious energy of the crowds dancing in the streets was fun.
Porto Alegre, Montevideo, Buenos Aires
My next carnival experience was in Porto Alegre, located near the Argentinian border. The southern Brazilian city had a more laidback celebratory vibe. I also spent several days in the capital Montevideo, Uruguay biking along the coastline and admiring the city’s architecture.
My final stop before heading back to Curitiba was the lively metropolis of Buenos Aires, Argentina. This is a gargantuan city that I only managed to scratch the surface of within 4 days. At the time, and apparently all the time, there were protests for something or other.
My Second Month Getting to Know Curitiba
After several weeks of nonstop travel, I yearned for a comfortable home base again. Returning to my Curitiba Airbnb almost felt like coming home. During month #2, I established a routine between sightseeing within the city and ramping up my muay thai training. I found an excellent Thai boxing gym and trained 4 times a week to keep in shape. This filled my need for exercise while providing mental focus beyond constant sightseeing. When I wanted a culture fix, I visited Curitiba’s premier art museums and the massive Botanical Garden with over 5,000 plant species. On the weekends I befriended some locals who took me to their favorite hidden bars and nightclubs beyond the touristy areas.
The Highs and Lows of Extended Travel
One downside I noticed after months of nonstop travel was that it prevented me from entering deeper work mode for my online business. There were always logistical aspects of catching the next flight or bus to prepare for. Once I returned from my second stint in Curitiba and settled down for a few weeks and became extremely productive with various projects that required uninterrupted focus time.
However, the upside is that extensive travel expanded my perspectives and provided endless novelty. Exposing myself to so much regional diversity in a short period was a privileged opportunity. I also formed deeper connections with the places and friends I returned back to, like Curitiba. After four years of procrastinating, I knew I had to finally sit down to document my rich experiences in Brazil ― better late than never!
Would I Recommend Curitiba?
Absolutely! For those seeking an authentic Brazilian experience in a safer, cleaner environment than the megalopolises of São Paulo and Rio de Janiero, look no further than Curitiba. The city offers a high standard of living, rich cultural attractions, vibrant university communities, and quick access to stunning nature. Visitors can comfortably spend months immersed in the food, nightlife, and rhythm of Curitiba before running out of new sights. I hope to return to this Brazilian gem for a third chapter someday soon!
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AI Disclaimer
In the hopes of efficiency, I used Claude.AI to write a blog post based on my video review of Curitiba, Brazil (see the video at the top of this page).
The AI was used to write the blog post, but Leonidas still had to edit it for truthfulness, relevance to my personal adventure (the AI likes to invent a lot of things I didn’t do) and ensuring it all made sense 😉
