Russia Novosibirsk

Novosibirsk, Russia: 4 Days In Siberia Third City

Russia Travel

Novosibirsk, Russia: 4 Days In Siberia’s Third City

Novosibirsk is the third-largest city in Russia (1.6 million people) and the unofficial capital of Siberia. It is 3,300 km east of Moscow and you reach it by spending two nights on the Trans-Siberian, or three hours on a flight from Sheremetyevo. The city sits roughly at the geographic centre of Russia, which is marked by a small Orthodox chapel placed dead in the middle of the main avenue.

The city is younger than the country it is in. It did not exist before 1893, when surveyors from the Trans-Siberian Railway settled on this stretch of the Ob River as the cheapest place to bridge the water. A workers’ camp went up around the construction site, then a railway settlement called Novonikolayevsk (after Tsar Nicholas II), then a Soviet industrial centre renamed Novosibirsk (“new Siberia”) in 1926. By the time the USSR collapsed it had passed 1.4 million people. It is one of the fastest-growing cities of the 20th century anywhere in the world.

The reason most of the architecture is Stalinist or Khrushchev-era is World War II. When the Wehrmacht reached European Russia in 1941, Stalin ordered hundreds of factories disassembled, loaded onto freight trains, and shipped to Siberia where they were re-erected behind the Urals. Novosibirsk absorbed about 50 of them, along with hundreds of thousands of evacuated workers, the Leningrad Philharmonic, and most of the Tretyakov Gallery’s art collection. It produced tanks, aircraft, and ammunition for the rest of the war.

The post-Soviet city is doing the thing every other ex-Soviet capital is doing: new condo towers shooting up between Stalinist blocks, foreign retail next to ancient kiosks, a Metro system that opened in 1986 and a Chapel of St. Nicholas rebuilt in 1993. Below: 62 photos from four September days in 2017, an embedded video review, and a story about the three Americans who decided to move here.

A Video Review Of Novosibirsk

Krasny Prospekt And The Geographic Centre Of Russia

Krasny Prospekt (“Red Avenue”) is the spine of Novosibirsk, a seven-kilometre boulevard that runs the length of the city north to south. It was laid out in 1896 by the Trans-Siberian railway engineers and lined with whatever the city built next: Stalinist apartments in the 1930s, the Opera in the 1940s, glass condos in the 2010s.

The single most photographed spot is the white-and-gold Chapel of St. Nicholas, which sits in the middle of the avenue. It was built in 1914 to mark the geographic centre of the Russian Empire (which Siberia very much was at the time) and as a thank-you for 300 years of Romanov rule. The Bolsheviks demolished it in 1930. The current building is a 1993 reconstruction.

Lenin Square And The Largest Theatre In Russia

The centre of civic Novosibirsk is Lenin Square, a wide plaza dominated by the Novosibirsk State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre. The theatre is the largest in Russia by interior volume, with a 60-metre dome that was originally designed in 1931 to enable revolutionary mass-spectacles, things like 1,000-strong choirs and tanks driving across the stage. Construction took 14 years. It opened on 12 May 1945, three days after Victory Day.

The square is named for Lenin because there is a Lenin statue on it, and it is anchored by the 1922 “Monument to the Fighters for the Soviet Power” group: a worker, a Red Army soldier, a partisan, and two allegorical figures with a torch and a laurel branch.

Cathedral Of Saint Alexander Nevsky: The First Stone Building

Until 1899 there was no major stone building in Novosibirsk. The town was still wooden, still called Novonikolayevsk, and still only six years old. The Cathedral of Saint Alexander Nevsky was the first thing built to last: a red brick neo-Byzantine cathedral commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II in memory of his father Alexander III, who had ordered the Trans-Siberian Railway and indirectly created the town.

The Bolsheviks closed the church in 1937, dynamited its bell tower, and used the structure as a film studio, an archive, and a House of Culture for over 50 years. It was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church in 1989 and reconsecrated in 1991. The gold-leaf interior has been almost completely restored.

The Ob River: Why The City Exists

Novosibirsk exists because the Trans-Siberian Railway needed to cross the Ob, and Russian engineer Nikolai Garin-Mikhailovsky picked this exact spot in 1891 as the cheapest place to do it. The construction camp around the 1897 railway bridge became the town. There is a bronze statue of Tsar Alexander III on the embankment as a small acknowledgement of who started the whole thing.

The Ob itself is the seventh longest river in the world (3,650 km) and the main waterway of western Siberia. It freezes from late October to mid-April. The original 1897 truss bridge is still in use for freight trains and is one of the most photographed structures in town.

Trains, Metro, And The Trans-Siberian

Novosibirsk-Glavny is the biggest train station in Siberia, a mint-green building completed in 1939, originally designed in the shape of an early-Soviet steam locomotive viewed from above. It is the midpoint of the Trans-Siberian Railway, three days east of Moscow and four days west of Vladivostok.

The Novosibirsk Metro, opened in 1986, is the only metro east of the Urals and one of only seven in the former USSR. Two lines, 13 stations, deep Soviet escalators, the works.

Aeroflot, the old Soviet state airline, has its regional office in a battered light-blue 1930s Constructivist building with the original hammer-and-sickle-and-wings emblem still in place above the door.

Novosibirsk From The Rooftops

The best view of Novosibirsk is from a residential rooftop. Most of the city is low-rise: Stalinist blocks from the 1930s and 1940s along Krasny Prospekt, five-storey Khrushchyovkas (Nikita Khrushchev’s mass-produced 1957 apartments) filling everything else, with the occasional 25-storey condo tower from the 2000s rising over the top.

The cooling towers visible on the horizon are the Novosibirsk TPP-2 thermal power plant, one of three coal-fired combined heat-and-power stations that heat and power the city. Soviet engineering kept district heating as the default for residential apartments and most flats still have hot water and radiators piped in directly from the plant.

The Cathedral of Ascension (Voznesensky Sobor, foundation laid 1913, completed in stages through 1947) is one of the very few churches in Novosibirsk that never closed during the Soviet period, and its twin gold domes are visible from most of the rooftop angles below.

A Soviet Plaque And A Night Out

Two final shots that say what kind of place Novosibirsk is in 2017. The first is a brass plaque on an ordinary office building commemorating Alexei Kosygin, Premier of the USSR from 1964 to 1980, who worked here in his twenties as a consumer-cooperative official. Kosygin was the architect of the 1965 Soviet economic reforms, the last serious attempt to make the planned economy work. Brezhnev quietly killed them. The plaque is from the 1980s and nobody has felt the need to take it down.

The second is from a night out: me on the far left with three Americans who had moved to Novosibirsk on purpose, plus one Russian friend. The expat scene in Siberia in 2017 was small but real, mostly English teachers, a few startup people, a handful of tech transplants. Sanctions, COVID, and the 2022 war have mostly ended it.

Conclusion

Novosibirsk is the most representative Russian city outside Moscow and St. Petersburg: rapidly growing, rapidly modernising, still architecturally Soviet, still organised around the Trans-Siberian Railway and the Ob River and a Stalinist opera house. Two or three days is plenty to see it. Worth a stop if you are doing the Trans-Sib.

Thanks for reading!

Leo

Written by

Leonidas K.

Since 2010, Leonidas has been an incredible Web Developer, and amazing Digital Marketer. He is the author of various exciting case studies in digital marketing, most notably in Pay Per Call Marketing. Make sure to read the case studies to make your life so much better!

1 Comment

  1. Dave Wilson ·

    We, Went on the Trans Siberian Railway 1977 when the USSR was still a communist state. Stopped off in Novosibirsk for over two days. The hotel had a woman on each floor who sat at her desk near the stairs and controlled the room keys each time we went out and arrived back. Our lady would keep them locked up in her desk draw and was a little officious or maybe just bored, but there was no unemployment in Russia we were told. The room was clean and livable but I noticed the roof of the apartment block across the street had a few loose tiles in one place and I wondered what happened when it rained. There was a huge single red plastic tulip structure outside imbedded into the pavement.

    Went to the ballet one night. The performers were quite good with the occasional slip up but they were not the Bolshie Ballet Company. The venue was packed and at the end there were so many bunches of flowers present to the performer’s. I must confess that I did nod off a few times and was prodded by my girl friend when I did so.

    The food was acceptable, but I have to say that one day on our trip we were given cucumber as part of our meal at breakfast, dinner and tea. I had to laugh when, in a film, Yule Brinner played a Russian Officer who was having a meal with the captured tourists who happened to cross over the boarder accidently and which was regarded as an international incident. Yule asked an American tourist if he liked cucumber as he was slicing his own up. The American nervously replied that he did. Yule replied. “I hate them, but in Russia, you eat what you are offered.”

    The next day, we were walking around in a group and came across a shop that just sold cucumbers and one of our crew said that she loved cucumbers and went in to buy one. She came out with two very big bags of them. We all laughed and asked what had happened. She said, ” I gave her a rubble and she gave me these. What do I do with them?” I can’t remember what she did with them.

    We were in an open market one afternoon where people were selling odd items from tables. Home garden produce in small amounts were on sale and one person had about a dozen small apples for sale. A potential customer picked one up and held in both hands and twisted it into two halves, so he had to be very strong to do that or their is a knack to it. It had a worm or whatever in it and the brown track mark maggots leave behind. The customer looked at the purveyor and said something and then tossed the pieces into the air towards him and walked away. Shortly after there was a commotion of excitement, as people around communicated with each other, as they quickly moved to congregate into the traditional Russian shopping line for a sought out product. We investigated and realised that there were about ten or more cases of oranges that had arrived which were in big demand.

    We were taken to a Russian Orthodox Church , a beautiful place where the congregation were singing so beautifully, the priest had a very deep voice like Ivan Rubinoff. We felt as if we were intruding as it was obvious the congregation was not happy about being presented to the tourists as they were, but it was lovely singing and I am grateful for the experience.

    One evening we went down to the Ob River where except for a big stocky Russian was deserted. The sun was setting and the Russian guy strolled over and he had a unlit cigarette in his mouth and he obviously was making signs that he wanted a light. I pulled out a box of matches that were of Asian origin. He looked at them with much interest, struck one to light his cigarette and put the box in his pocket. He said something in a voice that did not make me comfortable about asking for them back, and he walked away. He was welcome to them.

    One night about half a dozen of us went to the hotel restaurant as we heard a live band performing. We did not know that it operated as a club in the evening. We went in and felt a little uncomfortable as it was obvious that we were tourists which sparked some interest from the clientele. We did not feel that welcome really. However, we bought some beers and sat at our table. The clientele were enjoying themselves just like we would in a club of our own, we began to feel more relaxed and had a few more beers although we did not get up to he dance floor. I have to say that Russian women are generally nice looking and some more so. We had other experiences and I am glad that we did stop over in Novosibirsk, but I sometimes think that the three weeks or more that we spent in the USSR was too long. One thing though, we went to Asia when it was not as westernised as it is these days and I believe that it was probably more interesting then than now. As for the people, generally I think they just want a happy life like we do, but politics, bad rouge and dishonest people, and increasing mad population growth in some countries, just keeps on messing things up.

Leave a Comment

Leave a Comment
Sign in with Google
or

Comment posted!